2015_12_22 Beating the heat.

2015_12_22  
With Summer here and temps approaching 40 C  It was time to fix the West wall for good. Materials for the job were delivered and today we got into the shed, turned up the air conditioner and started putting up the wall.

First you need some measurements and some wood to cut up.

Then you need a chippie who happens to be your son, to show you how to do it :D

ok the sisalation foam board is on the back leaving a 5 inch air gap.
All we need to do is cut a hole for the power board and fill in the other gaps. The horisontal pieces are at 750mm and 1400mm to which the two baseboards will be fixed to after 6 m plaster sheets are fixed to the whole wall. The panels are flush with the piers and some plaster glue will fix the sheets to the bricks.
The windows are almost covered ,just leaving a little light reflecting off the ceiling. This wall used to radiate heat into the room they would would reach 50 C to the touch on a hot afternoon.
Hopefully no more ;)
Cheers
Rod

2015_12_19 Back Scenes

2015_12_19 We had to remove the back scenes.

Despite the fact that we used spray adhesive which meant the paper went on dry, over the next few weeks, the paper rippled and shrunk. We are pretty sure we could iron the bumps out and the paper would return to its original length.
However, unfortunately we could only remove about 90% of each sheet, leaving tears and rips in the rest.
I decided to cut my losses and replace the sheets.

We experimented with some 80gsm paper using white glue diluted 15 to 1 and were pleased with the results. Perhaps that is our answer.
The manufacturer discourages using wall paper paste, telling us to leave unglued gaps between the adhesive, but after seeing the shrinkage we are not happy to do that. The white glue experiment left a perfectly flat secure cover.  Perhaps we could seal it with matte liquid medium?

Cheers
Rod

2015_12_17 Nice weather :D

2015_12_17 Fitting Sound continues

Followed Mikes advice and removed the troublesome filters from the L Class light board.
 A five minute job for most, but my skills in soldering as bad as they are, meant I had to be extra careful with the iron, so as not to damage the body or the board. Ended up taking out all four components and soldering back in links. You need the L links because the motor will not turn without them in place

Mike said

"I believe it may be worth doing a modification to the motherboard in the SRM L class. Remove the dynamic brake blister.
The RFI circuit may need removal as some models don't seem to run too well; some other models are fine. I think it comes down to the particular model and layout also.
1. Remove D1 & C12. Just snip them out with some Xuron orange track cutters. See if this improves operation.
If not,
2. Remove the Inductors L1 & L2 from the mother board, after removing the decoder and pulling out the soldering iron. Only do this mod if you're confident not to melt the body. Pull the decoder up and away from the motherboard. careful to pull is straight up so as not to bend the pins.
3. Then bridge across each inductor pad as the inductor was wired in series with each motor wire. Is use a small (5mm long) piece of resistor wire so power can get through to the motor terminals."


Kind regards"

I then fitted Mikes X Class (Late version) Loksound 4 decoders to my three Auscision Series 1 - X Class. Mike will upgrade the chips for me in 2016, when he finishes off the X Class sound set.

I then ,finally reassembled the last B Class (Bugger that took a long time) :(

Now I have two 48 Class to finish and an 830.

Then 4 G Class and three 81 Class,to finish.

After that I will build two new plaster walls on the west side of the shed to insulate the afternoon sun, and start the new bench work for the NSW side of my layout.

Ordered all the material today, and hope to get it tomorrow.

Then I need to decide what to do with the back ground sheets, which is turning into a disaster.

Merry Christmas from my house to yours :D

Cheers

Rod

Thanks James for your interest and your help. I am going to install your sounds into another X37-44 series I have {in an orange box) that needs sound.as I have a spare Loksound with 8 pin plug fitted that I can use.

 Let you know how it goes :)
( Mike Walters
DCCSound team - Australia
Authorised ESU dealer

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2015_12_16 Nice day :) 27 C ah! that's better :)

2015_12_16  Auscision X Class day!!

Have to add these to the long list of sound installs.

At least Auscision have put a lot of thought into sound in their engines. (Now all we have to do is teach them how to fit tail lights and car lighting ;) )


Here are the first pics :)

Nice one Auscision. I bet this one brings a lot of smiles in the lucky state :)
Cheers
Rod

2015_12_06 L Class days

2015_12_06  Southern Models (WAGR)  L Class day!!
Don't have to add these to the long list of sound installs...YEIIIII!!
Sound already installed.
Unfortunately I do have to make modifications to the light boards though as the pre-installed Loksound chip does not like the mandatory interference suppressors. Not sure yet how to remove the surface mounts, although Mike Walters has sent me a how to email.

Runs nicely hauls a huge load up my helix, and sounds great! Unfortunately the video was not quite right and I blurred the picture of the loco on tracks.
Thanks Rocket and Co. A nicely done job. The colour manual and exploded diagram are a nice touch too. Not letting Auscision get away with anything, eh?
Cheers
Rod