2017_12_03 Well the Carriage Shed is finished!
Stuart, you are a wizard :D
Cheers
Rod
2017/12/03
2017_12_03 Checking out the Sprinter (video fixed)
2017_12_03 Sound Installs and Sprinter Video
(EDIT: Update from On Track! there is an arrow on the PCB board and an arrow molded in the body which face forward together.There also a small recess in the center of the chassis to help remove the body. Thanks Craig)
According to directions the body is held by three lugs each side.
I found that the black bit is chassis and body sits tightly and the gap is almost non existent. I had to use a blade to force a gap. It almost felt like I had to break a seal. Perhaps paint? Anyway be careful, because you don't want to chip or otherwise damage it. EDIT There also a small recess in the center of the chassis to help remove the body I missed it but it will save damage
(Bread clips were an original idea by David Head from Rail Page)
I used bread clips to hold the body away and gently moved the back of the knife to the other end and again held it apart with a bread clip. I would use extra clips in the middle too, if I had them.
Just slid clip to ends to release the body. Do it gently though, no need to damage paint.
Ok after both sides are released un-clip the middle an inch above foam holder and shake it loose :)
I had to slide knife back in to get finger nails under middle both sides. I should have used 6 spacers.
Remember which end of body matches chassis. Only goes one way, though. Edit there is an arrow on the PCB board and an arrow molded in the body which face forward together
Replace Dummy plug with Sound Decoder. Mine came with speaker attached.
the plug is on top of circuit board and closely looked at you will see missing pins, top right hand corner. You know you got it right :)
Gently push down when you have it lined up (look closely) When you push it down, you know its ok when you see all pins fill slot. That is level with top of plug. The decoder does not sit flat. Its ok.
My picture blurred. However Mike shows the speaker in position. I removed the seal on the double sided tape lifted the circuit board up and pushed it in with the speaker at bottom of sound enclosure
Mike says...
(from DCC Sounds of Australia site)
The body is removed from the chassis by splaying it outwards along each side and carefully removing it from the chassis. There are three features per body side that locate the body to chassis. A 21-MTC decoder is mounted correct side up (as shown above). The ESU 11x15mm "sugarcube" speaker with enclosure is located as shown above. Note that the speaker is under the enclosure. This enables more sound to escape from the model. There are separate solder pads available on the OTM lighting board, or the speaker wires can run directly from the decoder to speaker. Test the decoder and then reinstall the body. Pre-production sample shown above.
If video not working a better copy at Vmeo (click)
Cheers
Rod
(EDIT: Update from On Track! there is an arrow on the PCB board and an arrow molded in the body which face forward together.There also a small recess in the center of the chassis to help remove the body. Thanks Craig)
According to directions the body is held by three lugs each side.
I found that the black bit is chassis and body sits tightly and the gap is almost non existent. I had to use a blade to force a gap. It almost felt like I had to break a seal. Perhaps paint? Anyway be careful, because you don't want to chip or otherwise damage it. EDIT There also a small recess in the center of the chassis to help remove the body I missed it but it will save damage
(Bread clips were an original idea by David Head from Rail Page)
I used bread clips to hold the body away and gently moved the back of the knife to the other end and again held it apart with a bread clip. I would use extra clips in the middle too, if I had them.
Just slid clip to ends to release the body. Do it gently though, no need to damage paint.
Ok after both sides are released un-clip the middle an inch above foam holder and shake it loose :)
I had to slide knife back in to get finger nails under middle both sides. I should have used 6 spacers.
Remember which end of body matches chassis. Only goes one way, though. Edit there is an arrow on the PCB board and an arrow molded in the body which face forward together
Remove dummy plug carefully and I found it tight. Dont damage circuit board underneath with screw driver..Gently does it ;)
Replace Dummy plug with Sound Decoder. Mine came with speaker attached.
the plug is on top of circuit board and closely looked at you will see missing pins, top right hand corner. You know you got it right :)
Gently push down when you have it lined up (look closely) When you push it down, you know its ok when you see all pins fill slot. That is level with top of plug. The decoder does not sit flat. Its ok.
My picture blurred. However Mike shows the speaker in position. I removed the seal on the double sided tape lifted the circuit board up and pushed it in with the speaker at bottom of sound enclosure
Mike says...
(from DCC Sounds of Australia site)
The body is removed from the chassis by splaying it outwards along each side and carefully removing it from the chassis. There are three features per body side that locate the body to chassis. A 21-MTC decoder is mounted correct side up (as shown above). The ESU 11x15mm "sugarcube" speaker with enclosure is located as shown above. Note that the speaker is under the enclosure. This enables more sound to escape from the model. There are separate solder pads available on the OTM lighting board, or the speaker wires can run directly from the decoder to speaker. Test the decoder and then reinstall the body. Pre-production sample shown above.
If video not working a better copy at Vmeo (click)
Cheers
Rod
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