2017_12_23 just wasted the day, but did get an hour or two in the shed.
Running a few trains, adding a few droppers and then I decided to attack the bogie Exchange building!
Its a "pike n stuff" engine shed, but the way I cut it up, it does look like the Exchange shed, don't you think?
Bit close to points? however the 80 footer fits so might leave it there.Cheers
Rod
2017/12/23
2017/12/18
2017_12_18 Gum Boot? or have my FB posts caught up with me?
2017_12_18 Oi!! Wot's this?? A medical boot and GPS tracker?
Only way to find out, is open it, I guess?
Hmm? too small for what I thought it might be.
Oh, it is Stuarts Golden Fleece. I just have to glue on the signs!
Here is where it goes, over the line from the Pub!
Just have to dig it in :D and plant the cross bucks and finish the culvert ( Ian Wilson Models)
Ah Stuart modified an engine shed to look like the old Wodonga Carriage shed.
Pretty nice, eh?
The work platforms are included and can be placed in correct position.
The Sprinter arrived about 40 years too late to use the real shed, however in my version the shed survived in a different place as well.
I always have excuses.
This one is more of the same. I have not been feeling well, and get too tied in a cold room, as well as a hot one :(
So I had a few weeks of good weather, but life got in the way, with visits to Mildura , Bendigo and Melbourne. And then I was not feeling so well. By the time I was right to work in the shed, the temp was in the 30's (C) and the damn water cooler failed again, just like last summer. Turned out the frost had broken a tap, and the plumber fixed it but left the tap turned off. OK found problem and today was quite enjoyable in the shed.
I finished up a couple of sound projects and started to clean up Albury, so Al and I can start laying track, as soon as he is well enough.
He is really good for me, as a friend and as a driver Ha Ha slave driver :D
Cheers all
Rod
Only way to find out, is open it, I guess?
Hmm? too small for what I thought it might be.
Oh, it is Stuarts Golden Fleece. I just have to glue on the signs!
Here is where it goes, over the line from the Pub!
Just have to dig it in :D and plant the cross bucks and finish the culvert ( Ian Wilson Models)
Ah Stuart modified an engine shed to look like the old Wodonga Carriage shed.
Pretty nice, eh?
The work platforms are included and can be placed in correct position.
The Sprinter arrived about 40 years too late to use the real shed, however in my version the shed survived in a different place as well.
I always have excuses.
This one is more of the same. I have not been feeling well, and get too tied in a cold room, as well as a hot one :(
So I had a few weeks of good weather, but life got in the way, with visits to Mildura , Bendigo and Melbourne. And then I was not feeling so well. By the time I was right to work in the shed, the temp was in the 30's (C) and the damn water cooler failed again, just like last summer. Turned out the frost had broken a tap, and the plumber fixed it but left the tap turned off. OK found problem and today was quite enjoyable in the shed.
I finished up a couple of sound projects and started to clean up Albury, so Al and I can start laying track, as soon as he is well enough.
He is really good for me, as a friend and as a driver Ha Ha slave driver :D
Cheers all
Rod
2017/12/08
2017_12_07 No excuses now! point machines!
2017_12_07 Adding to bridges (at long last) and Point machines!
The pictures help me see that I need to fix up some of this!
Some putty to fill in the joins
and cut some styrene out to fit on top of the piers under the rail girders to simulate a concrete cap?
Also pick out the card in red to cover the white card showing through.
The card did not come to top of capstone. Might have to cover the gap with styrene concrete strip?
forgot to brick in the edge leading to next buttress over creek.
Parcel in the mail :
I ordered a few point motors strewth..that many?
ah ok 20 servos pre built with micro switches and 20 without micro switches. Mostly packaging and brown paper balled up to fill in the spaces.
This should make things easier to set up. I thought the switches came with them, but I do have some octo switches that will work ok.
I will use these in Albury yard.
Cheers
Rod
The pictures help me see that I need to fix up some of this!
Some putty to fill in the joins
and cut some styrene out to fit on top of the piers under the rail girders to simulate a concrete cap?
Also pick out the card in red to cover the white card showing through.
The card did not come to top of capstone. Might have to cover the gap with styrene concrete strip?
forgot to brick in the edge leading to next buttress over creek.
Parcel in the mail :
I ordered a few point motors strewth..that many?
ah ok 20 servos pre built with micro switches and 20 without micro switches. Mostly packaging and brown paper balled up to fill in the spaces.
This should make things easier to set up. I thought the switches came with them, but I do have some octo switches that will work ok.
I will use these in Albury yard.
Cheers
Rod
2017/12/03
2017_12_03 Checking out the Sprinter (video fixed)
2017_12_03 Sound Installs and Sprinter Video
(EDIT: Update from On Track! there is an arrow on the PCB board and an arrow molded in the body which face forward together.There also a small recess in the center of the chassis to help remove the body. Thanks Craig)
According to directions the body is held by three lugs each side.
I found that the black bit is chassis and body sits tightly and the gap is almost non existent. I had to use a blade to force a gap. It almost felt like I had to break a seal. Perhaps paint? Anyway be careful, because you don't want to chip or otherwise damage it. EDIT There also a small recess in the center of the chassis to help remove the body I missed it but it will save damage
(Bread clips were an original idea by David Head from Rail Page)
I used bread clips to hold the body away and gently moved the back of the knife to the other end and again held it apart with a bread clip. I would use extra clips in the middle too, if I had them.
Just slid clip to ends to release the body. Do it gently though, no need to damage paint.
Ok after both sides are released un-clip the middle an inch above foam holder and shake it loose :)
I had to slide knife back in to get finger nails under middle both sides. I should have used 6 spacers.
Remember which end of body matches chassis. Only goes one way, though. Edit there is an arrow on the PCB board and an arrow molded in the body which face forward together
Replace Dummy plug with Sound Decoder. Mine came with speaker attached.
the plug is on top of circuit board and closely looked at you will see missing pins, top right hand corner. You know you got it right :)
Gently push down when you have it lined up (look closely) When you push it down, you know its ok when you see all pins fill slot. That is level with top of plug. The decoder does not sit flat. Its ok.
My picture blurred. However Mike shows the speaker in position. I removed the seal on the double sided tape lifted the circuit board up and pushed it in with the speaker at bottom of sound enclosure
Mike says...
(from DCC Sounds of Australia site)
The body is removed from the chassis by splaying it outwards along each side and carefully removing it from the chassis. There are three features per body side that locate the body to chassis. A 21-MTC decoder is mounted correct side up (as shown above). The ESU 11x15mm "sugarcube" speaker with enclosure is located as shown above. Note that the speaker is under the enclosure. This enables more sound to escape from the model. There are separate solder pads available on the OTM lighting board, or the speaker wires can run directly from the decoder to speaker. Test the decoder and then reinstall the body. Pre-production sample shown above.
If video not working a better copy at Vmeo (click)
Cheers
Rod
(EDIT: Update from On Track! there is an arrow on the PCB board and an arrow molded in the body which face forward together.There also a small recess in the center of the chassis to help remove the body. Thanks Craig)
According to directions the body is held by three lugs each side.
I found that the black bit is chassis and body sits tightly and the gap is almost non existent. I had to use a blade to force a gap. It almost felt like I had to break a seal. Perhaps paint? Anyway be careful, because you don't want to chip or otherwise damage it. EDIT There also a small recess in the center of the chassis to help remove the body I missed it but it will save damage
(Bread clips were an original idea by David Head from Rail Page)
I used bread clips to hold the body away and gently moved the back of the knife to the other end and again held it apart with a bread clip. I would use extra clips in the middle too, if I had them.
Just slid clip to ends to release the body. Do it gently though, no need to damage paint.
Ok after both sides are released un-clip the middle an inch above foam holder and shake it loose :)
I had to slide knife back in to get finger nails under middle both sides. I should have used 6 spacers.
Remember which end of body matches chassis. Only goes one way, though. Edit there is an arrow on the PCB board and an arrow molded in the body which face forward together
Remove dummy plug carefully and I found it tight. Dont damage circuit board underneath with screw driver..Gently does it ;)
Replace Dummy plug with Sound Decoder. Mine came with speaker attached.
the plug is on top of circuit board and closely looked at you will see missing pins, top right hand corner. You know you got it right :)
Gently push down when you have it lined up (look closely) When you push it down, you know its ok when you see all pins fill slot. That is level with top of plug. The decoder does not sit flat. Its ok.
My picture blurred. However Mike shows the speaker in position. I removed the seal on the double sided tape lifted the circuit board up and pushed it in with the speaker at bottom of sound enclosure
Mike says...
(from DCC Sounds of Australia site)
The body is removed from the chassis by splaying it outwards along each side and carefully removing it from the chassis. There are three features per body side that locate the body to chassis. A 21-MTC decoder is mounted correct side up (as shown above). The ESU 11x15mm "sugarcube" speaker with enclosure is located as shown above. Note that the speaker is under the enclosure. This enables more sound to escape from the model. There are separate solder pads available on the OTM lighting board, or the speaker wires can run directly from the decoder to speaker. Test the decoder and then reinstall the body. Pre-production sample shown above.
If video not working a better copy at Vmeo (click)
Cheers
Rod
2017/12/02
2017_12_01 On Track Sprinters
2017_12_01 Our Suppliers delivered two new Rail Motors today
A couple of years back, Head Office ordered a new Rail Motor
(All pictures can be clicked on to enlarge)
The Yard Goat pushes the new Sprinters into the shed to be examined by the Fitters before first start up. Ok Mr Munro! hop to it :D
Their is a fault with the scharfenberg couplers which require some attention to make them fully operable. Fix is in hand :)
Cheers
Rod
A couple of years back, Head Office ordered a new Rail Motor
(All pictures can be clicked on to enlarge)
The Yard Goat pushes the new Sprinters into the shed to be examined by the Fitters before first start up. Ok Mr Munro! hop to it :D
Their is a fault with the scharfenberg couplers which require some attention to make them fully operable. Fix is in hand :)
Cheers
Rod
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)