2017_01_15 Still slogging on.....

2017_01_15   Since last update wiring, rebuilding points track laying!

Last Thursday was ALDAY and we laid out the rest of Wodonga. Although we got into trouble with the turntable. First, I dropped the table and broke the bridge power pick up tower.I did not know the bridge was just sitting in the deck, and when I turned it upside down, it fell a few inches to base board. It is heavy and the mast shattered. Fixable and I can build an Aussie version out of H girder like the Wodonga one was.
Programming it has been interesting. It keeps throwing up an error, I will have to search google and see how others have managed.
So whilst Al continued on with track laying, I tried to keep ahead of him. We used brand new Shinohara code 70 points, but they were DC versions, and each one needed to be upgraded to DCC compatibility.  Easy enough, just time consuming. However it is a cheap way of getting points. I  recently picked these all up on E-Bay  in a bulk deal for less than $6 a point :D
Ok lets start things off....

Useless instructions hindered and caused more problems than helped to solve.

I have finished mods to third point "just in time" Al started on underlay, and we both got the turn table to sit flat. However cutting holes for the locating pins, was not helpfull. Now the deck sits too low and we had to lift the table to sit it higher to line up the rails. The holes need shifting. They are not all 113 mm apart most are but two are at 110mm  and 112mm. To line up with the two roads I need to recut a new set of holes, or better still snip off the lugs, which seem only useful if you are using a Walthers engine shed??

 Wodonga had two roads to the turn table (highest pair)  But I have moved the carriage sheds to this end of layout, mainly because I had little room to place them where they should have been.

Lining up the turn table was difficult. The instructions were not that helpful.

Carriage shed will go here and I will use a two track version of Stuarts car shed here.
 Walker Models  http://modeltrainbuildings.com.au/

Al has a go at lining up the turn table. Nice job on the underlay(ing) and track laying pal :D

So where am I?  Well after a couple of weeks of laying on my back under the layout, upgrading wiring (fixing problems) I got to sit down. My job was to build all the circuits up, and prepare the point motors. The untidy work table is not helping, I guess.

I am always looking for something...Oh!  Don't you just love the signals 👀

Unfortunately we had to move the track on the bridge and fix the piers. Al got this done too. Workaholic!

 What was I looking for?? distracted , forgotten?  Oh well back to the work table.

Ok, green box on floor has servo motors mounted in a special cast bracket that Roger Lloyds friend Tony, cast up for me. Should order some more.
Here I am cutting out the sleepers under the ends of the frog, where the blades attach. I have to remove a connection here that causes a direct short. I will solder some circuit board ties to replace the ones I have cut out.

Gently break out the sleepers and usually the brass connector comes away easily, If not help it with soldering iron, and de-solder the rail to enable a half rail joiner to be pushed on to hold point blades in place.

Cut away the extra sleepers at each end of point (3)  Then de-solder metal joiners holding blades together. Remember which blade goes where, because they are different. I didn't get a shot, but I then use a long circuit board sleeper cut down to size, and drilled out and insulated with a shallow cut each side. Insulate at different places and not over the hole drilled for the point machine. Invites shorts and weakens circuit board. I simply push the blades into joiner making sure they move freely, and then soldered to the throw bar. Test to make sure you can move the bar from side to side and blades align perfectly.  Solder wires to track red and black need to be placed on correct sides. Place point in its position and note which rail is black. Solder accordingly.  White wire has to go to frog. But that is covered in plastic on bottom. However these DC points have connections built in linking both inner rails to the rails heading towards the blades. Simply cut gaps on the blade side of the frog, and use insulated joiners when connecting rails to this end of the points Solder the white frog wire to one or both (they are internally linked) of the middle rails that will be insulated and join the white wire to your juicer or point machine which will switch the power to frog, to match the way the road is aligned.
Test the points make sure that no shorts are left in system. I always solder the red and black wires to the outside rails but link them to the next closest rail which forms the diversion road.
I also use fine wire to link the point blades directly to the red and black feeders. This should guarantee power is always available to them, Sometimes corrosion or white glue will insulate blades over time.

Cheap fascia mounts from Tam Valley are recessed stopping clothing from snagging the point buttons. Simply glued together and attached to Singlet point controller

Simply attach the controller to the mount Test and put aside till I can buy the correct size hole saw. Then I simply pull that screw out, place fascia mount in hole and align circuit board and tighten screw to ensure buttons are free. 4 screws in mount secures it to fascia.

oops!  Better get back to the points. Alday is fast approaching!
Oh and I should mention that I had a visitor Saturday as well (I am indeed blessed)


Graeme Schulz has come up with a way to cover the corners. I had some board cut up to size and now we are working out how to secure it in place. The problem is that whilst it hides track we dont want in scene, it makes it difficult to  re rail trains, (and clean track of course) if the worst happens.

Ok so just sitting for effect The lower sheet will match the top sheet. Allow trains or track to be accessed from a stool.
We decided to cover the brickwork with dry wall (plaster) between the piers top and bottom. 

So my job is to knock up a frame and fit it so that drywall can be screwed on to help secure the corners, and further cut down on the dust.

Looks like the TV will have to go. And I will use the wall to move the power boards to a better more convenient place.

Sheet was cut a little high. Will need to cut it down and sit it back about a foot and a half  :)

It actually hides the layout as you come through the door. I like that.

Again sheets were not correct height. But an easy fix. Even in white you can see how it changes the look of the corner.

Carefully matching the scenery and layering the back boards should help this scene immensely . Dry wall on the bottom, relocated power boards and an untidy area is safely hidden away. Always mindfull, that this old bloke does not want to climb underneath any more than he has to.
Rod Young

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